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	<title>Anomori ~ アメリの森&#187; damier</title>
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	<description>Lholy&#039;s sewing, crafting blog</description>
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		<title>Checker skirt</title>
		<link>http://anomori.com/blog/?p=1507</link>
		<comments>http://anomori.com/blog/?p=1507#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 May 2014 05:00:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lholy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[sewing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fabrics and notions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[damier]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jupe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jupe élastiquée]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[la modette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[skirt]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[The project I&#8217;m showing today is quite special: I got the opportunity to test one of the first fabrics produced by french designer La Modette. I was so happy when Sandrine told me that I would be part of the &#8230; <a class="more-link" href="http://anomori.com/blog/?p=1507">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;">The project I&#8217;m showing today is quite special: I got the opportunity to test one of the first fabrics produced by french designer<a href="https://www.facebook.com/lamodetteparis" target="_blank"> La Modette</a>. <img src='http://anomori.com/nunowpblog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />  I was so happy when Sandrine told me that I would be part of the first round of testers for her new fabrics! She liked the fabric I had picked and the project I suggested.  It&#8217;s the first time I take part in something like this, it was exciting but also a little bit stressful. It felt like such a huge decision when I started cutting into the fabric to make something out of it. ^^;</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://anomori.com/blog/bloguploads/2014/05/TissusLaModettePart1.jpg" alt="First fabrics from La Modette" /></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">As you can see from the above picture (taken from La Modette&#8217;s facebook page with Sandrine&#8217;s permission), all fabrics from this first batch are really nice and colorful. I thought for a moment of making something with <a href="https://www.facebook.com/lamodetteparis/photos/a.522740917820813.1073741829.369794433115463/624106764350894/?type=1&amp;theater" target="_blank">this umbrella print</a> (cause umbrellas are fun and I still can&#8217;t forgive myself for not getting some of Alexander Henry&#8217;s April Showers print), but in the end I decided to stick with the checker print (which you can see better <a href="https://www.facebook.com/lamodetteparis/photos/a.522740917820813.1073741829.369794433115463/624097634351807/?type=1&amp;theater" target="_blank">here</a>) that had first caught my eye. Since I don&#8217;t have much available time lately (perhaps you&#8217;ve noticed?) I knew a simple project would be best. I thought I could make another skirt similar to my <a href="http://anomori.com/blog/?p=680" target="_blank">brown skirt with the lace print</a>. It has few sewing lines and it&#8217;s based on rectangles, which would work well with that kind of print, and it&#8217;s a skirt I wear quite often so I&#8217;d probably make good use of another one in the same style.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://anomori.com/blog/bloguploads/2014/05/DamiersMondrianJaune.png" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I realized it wouldn&#8217;t be so easy when I measured the fabric after washing it. I also measured my original skirt and here is how it went: my skirt has two 52&#215;99 cm panels (not counting the seam allowances) and my fabric was 94x155cm. They was no way I could cut two panels high and large enough to make the same skirt. Since I didn&#8217;t want to chance the skirt shape, my only option was either to mix fabrics (I&#8217;m sure it would be nice mixed with a plain black) or patch smaller panels together to create the length I needed. I figured the skirt would be easier to coordinate if I didn&#8217;t add yet another color to it, so I went for the latter.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><img class="aligncenter" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5318/14001345897_a7b0ef1357.jpg" alt="Une jupe puzzle..." /></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Technical details:</p>
<ul style="text-align: justify;">
<li>I cut a first rectangle of 52 (+ sewing allowances) x 155cm, and made a second one measuring 52 x 50cm (+ allowances) by sewing together two smaller rectangles of 26 x 50cm (+ allowances). As a result 3/4 of the skirt don&#8217;t have any seams, and the last quarter has two vertical seams and an horizontal one around the middle. I did my best to sew on the squares to hide the seaming.</li>
<li>as the fabric is rather light I was concerned about show through so I decided to line the skirt in a very soft cotton fabric (maybe a blend?) I&#8217;ve had for some time. Maybe it wasn&#8217;t necessary, but it had the added benefit of providing another layer to catchstitch the hem to, so that I wouldn&#8217;t have any hem stitch showing on the right side.</li>
<li>the waistband is a simple 6cm height band folded and sewn with 1cm seam allowances, for an elastic band that was 1,5cm large. It was a little tight for the elastic but I think it may have to do with me not reducing my allowances after sewing.</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7418/14001311800_016bf5aa01.jpg" alt="Nice invisible hem" /><span style="color: #808080;"><em>A nice hem without any stitches showing on the outside</em></span></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">So what about the fabric? As a tester I have to give my opinion about it (although it&#8217;s probably easier to review a pattern&#8230;). I found it nice and easy to use and found the colors to be really nice in real life too (at first on my computer I thought the light squares were white but they&#8217;re a sort of pale salmon pink). It creases normally for a cotton poplin. I prewashed it at 30°C, Sandrine says we can even wash it at 40°C. The colors didn&#8217;t fade or bleed. It seems the fabric shrank a little bit in the direction parallel to the selvage: the squares are supposed to be 4cm by 4cm according to the website, but mine were a tiny bit less high. The fabric doesn&#8217;t fray much. There was a tiny flaw in the print in one place, but I guess it happens sometimes. Unfortunately I saw it after I had already cut my pieces, but I managed to hide part of it by moving a seam a little bit and I don&#8217;t think it&#8217;s really noticeable on the skirt.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><img class="aligncenter" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14184664291_187273af02.jpg" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The good:</p>
<ul style="text-align: justify;">
<li>it was a great opportunity to take part in a nice project, test new fabrics, and promote and support a French creative woman.</li>
<li>the resulting skirt is fresh and cheerful.</li>
<li>I succeeded in getting the skirt I had planned, which has the right size, even if it seemed at first that I didn&#8217;t have enough fabric. It was an interesting challenge. The easy to match and regular motif clearly helped.</li>
<li>The motifs match almost perfectly at the seams.</li>
<li>I&#8217;m really proud of my catchstitched hem. I&#8217;m quite lazy usually when it comes to hand hemming, but I felt it would be a shame to ruin the lovely check motif with visible stitches. My stitches aren&#8217;t perfect, they&#8217;re still not quite regular, but it could have been worse, I&#8217;m getting better. It&#8217;s funny because they vary a lot in size at the beginning: first they were tiny as I was hesitant, and then as I got scared that it would take forever they got huge. XD After that I decided to be more focused and they got better.</li>
<li>The lining is super soft on my legs it&#8217;s a pleasure. <img src='http://anomori.com/nunowpblog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/14187969375_fbe39ef18e.jpg" alt="Isn't it nice?" /><img class="aligncenter" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2895/14001346667_4acf642acf.jpg" alt="First stitches..." /><span style="color: #808080;"><em>First stitches: from tiny to huge</em></span></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The not so good: I&#8217;m not entirely sure I made the best choices&#8230;</p>
<ul style="text-align: justify;">
<li>I should have cut to rectangles of 47cm by 102cm and add a band at the bottom rather that cut the right length and add a vertical band with a seam in the middle of it. It&#8217;s not balanced and even if the checks match from up close you can see the seams. And I&#8217;m afraid if might alter the way the skirt hangs.</li>
<li>I feel like the waist on this skirt is thicker than on my brown skirt. It&#8217;s probably because of the added lining and the fact that I didn&#8217;t cut the allowances.</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7356/14001309548_32c7eba433.jpg" alt="" /><span style="color: #808080;"><em>Can you spot the seams?</em></span><img class="aligncenter" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14001291029_7b33978c40.jpg" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Mr Robots says he really likes this skirt, which he finds fresh, and he thinks it fits me well. I&#8217;m wearing it right now with a black tank top. The top is fitted so it&#8217;s hiding the elasticized waistband and makes the skirt flares a little bit more under it, it looks nice. I think it looks better like this than with the shorter top I used for my outdoor picture. And it made me think of another use for this fabric: a dress in the 20&#8242;s style, in black, with a flounce in this fabric at the bottom. What do you think, would it be nice ?</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><img class="aligncenter" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14187993785_c087fb1958.jpg" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I still have a little bit of fabric that I&#8217;m keeping for the perfect use. I&#8217;m even thinking about getting more of this same print in the same colors to try another idea or two that I had during this project. So maybe you&#8217;ll see more checks here soon? What about you? Will you fall into check love (this fabric is available in several colorways)? <strong>What would you make with such fabric?</strong></p>
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